San Giovanni in Persiceto: The Village You Don't Expect

In the heart of the Emilian plain, between Bologna and Modena, San Giovanni in Persiceto is a vibrant and authentic village that enchants with its authenticity and the unexpected beauty of its historic center.

Discovered almost by chance during a visit to the Lamborghini, in nearby Sant'Agata Bolognese, San Giovanni in Persiceto welcomed me with the surprise of its porticoes, elegant squares and its unique circular shape.
Entering the town hall, climbing a dramatic staircase, I meet the mayor, who smiles and says: “We have a beautiful center, fascinating murals, good food, and even a monument dedicated to ‘King Gino,’ the town’s symbolic cat.” Thus begins my discovery of an authentic, colorful, and surprising village.

A bit of history

The origins of San Giovanni in Persiceto date back to Roman times, when it was known as "Forum Marcelli," a colony dedicated to the consul Claudius Marcellus. In the Middle Ages, it became a free commune and prospered thanks to land reclamation projects that transformed the marshy land into a fertile plain. San Giovanni is also the birthplace of Giulio Cesare Croce (1550–1609), author of the famous "Bertoldo and Bertoldino" (characters of the famous local carnival), and preserves a genuine gastronomic tradition based on simple and authentic flavors: tagliatelle, tortellini, ladyfingers, and "africanetti," typical local sweets.

The square of painted illusions

I begin my discovery of San Giovanni in Persiceto from the main attraction, the scenic Bethlehem Square, also known as “Piazzetta degli Inganni”.
Once a degraded area, it has been transformed by the genius of Gino Pellegrini, an internationally renowned set designer, into a riot of color and wonder. The facades of the houses come alive with giant vegetables, animals, fake windows, and illusory perspectives that confuse the eye. Walking through this little square is like entering a dream, a fairytale painted using the trompe l'oeil technique.

The heart of the village

The history of San Giovanni in Persiceto is evident in Piazza del Popolo, the vibrant heart of this circular village. It can be reached by walking along Corso Italia, starting from Porta Vittoria or Porta Garibaldi, through porticoes reminiscent of Bologna and inviting you to stop in historic shops and cafes.
The square is striking for the harmony of its architecture: the Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Battista, with its Lombard Gothic façade and works by Guercino, the Civic Tower (48 meters high), and the 15th-century Palazzo Comunale, which houses an elegant theater, richly decorated with frescoes and stucco. The square's paving is also unique, designed like a large sundial that seems to mark the village's time.

Gino, the king of San Giovanni

It didn't escape my attention, under the porticoes of the square, at the entrance to the town hall, an old chair with a statue of a cat on its cushion. It's Gino, the big red and white cat who roamed freely around the town for years, entering shops, attending city council meetings, and becoming "councilor for environmental well-being." His story, tender and ironic, had a sad ending (he was hit by a car and couldn't be saved) but a very sweet legacy: today Gino is remembered as the "Supreme Sovereign of San Giovanni in Persiceto," a symbol of a village capable of affection and smiling.

A round village: a stone embrace

San Giovanni in Persiceto (San Żvân in dialect) is known as "the round village" for its circular layout, a rare urban design modeled on the ancient medieval walls. Strolling through the alleys, you'll encounter hidden courtyards, time-honored shops, picturesque views, and doorways that tell stories. Each curve leads back to the center, like an embrace inviting you to stop, breathe, and be amazed by the details of the street art.

Museums not to be missed

The town, in addition to its squares, porticoes and murals, offers an interesting cultural itinerary. Environmental Archaeological Museum tells the history of the area through Roman and naturalistic finds. Museum of Heaven and Earth offers a journey through science and astronomy with laboratories and a planetarium. Steam Museum It houses a rich collection of perfectly restored and functioning locomotives and agricultural vehicles.

San Giovanni in Persiceto, equidistant from the Ducati of Borgo Panigale and the Maserati of Modena, it is one of those places that you don't forget and that enrich a day trip in the Bologna area.

For those arriving in Bologna by camper:

Rest area “City of Towers” at the Ropa Center